Here’s How to Build Adirondack Chairs

Is there anything better than whiling away the hours in the deep recline of an Adirondack chair? Designed for lounging, the high back and sloping seat offer ultimate relaxation. The extra-wide armrests are perfect for balancing drinks and small plates. Adirondack chairs are also durable and lend an air of sophistication to any deck or porch. Often referred to here in Canada as a Muskoka chair, the Adirondack version is a bit taller and has a flat vs. curved back. Follow DIY expert Megan Isenor’s easy steps to build your own Adirondack chairs.

Here’s What You Need*:

• (6) 2” x 4” Pressure Treated Boards (8-foot lengths) 

• (2) 2” x 2” Pressure Treated Boards (8-foot lengths) 

• (9) 1” x 4” Pressure Treated Boards (8-foot lengths) 

• 2½” Wood Screws 

• 2” Wood Screws 

•  1¼” Wood Screws 

• BeautiTone’s Exterior Colour of the Year - Ebony 

• Mitre Saw 

• Cordless Drill 

• Tape Measure 

*Lumber may vary depending on your location. To see all your options, use our Store Locator to find the Home Hardware Building Centre or Home Building Centre closest to you.

Here’s How to Make It

Summer wouldn’t be complete without another fun project. This year we really wanted to slow down and enjoy our home. Enjoying a BBQ on the deck, an evening fire, or just sitting by the lake requires comfortable seating. We’ve had the plastic style Adirondack chairs before but unfortunately the smaller price tag also means a shorter chair lifespan. So I decided to build our own Adirondack chairs from scratch! We went with a very durable 2” x 4” frame style, which also adds a bit of modern flair. Our local Home Hardware was an essential partner, providing all the tools, tips and materials we needed

Cut List for Two Chairs

It was easier to make all the cuts for both chairs at the same time. I made sure to keep the pieces for each chair separate to avoid confusion. The steps below are for building one chair.

Back Legs: Cut four pieces of 2” x 4” to 20¾” long with both ends cut parallel at 15 degrees off square (long point to short point measurement). 

Front Legs: Cut four pieces of 2’ x 4’ to 20” long. 

Arm Supports: Cut four pieces of 2” x 2” to 26½” long (longest point measurement) with one end cut at 15 degrees off square. 

Stretchers: Cut four pieces of 2” x 4” to 31 7/8” long, with one end cut at 35 degrees off square to longest point, and the other end cut at 20 degrees off square to shortest point. 

Front Aprons & Back Supports: Cut four pieces of 2” x 4” to 22½” long. 

Seat Slats: Cut ten pieces of 1” x 4” to 22 ½” long. 

Back Slats: Cut ten pieces of 1” x 4” to 36” long. 

Seat Back Top Supports: Cut two pieces of 1” x 4” to 19½” long. 

Seat Back Base Supports: Cut two pieces of 2” x 4” to 19 ½” long. 

Arm Rests: Cut four pieces of 1” x 4” to 27” long.

Step 1: Building the Legs

I attached the 2” x 2” arm supports between the 20¾” length back legs and 20” length front legs with 2½” wood screws. I made sure the top and outside edges of the support were flush with the legs.

Step 2: Attaching the Stretchers & Apron

Next, I flipped them over so the 2” x 2” supports were on the outside and attached the stretchers. Once complete, I fastened on the front apron with 2½” wood screws.

Step 3: Attaching the Back Support

For the back support I measured 4½” down from the inner part of the back legs, and 5” down from the back portion of the legs, and attached the back support with 2½” screws.

Step 4: Installing the Seat Slats

There are five 22½” seat slats in total. I started at the front of the seat and worked my way back, attaching the slats with 2” wood screws and leaving a ½” space between each slat.

Step 5: Building the Chair Back

There are five 36” back slats in total. I attached them to the 2” x 4” supports with 1¼” wood screws, once again leaving a ½” space between the slats. For the base support I used the 19½” piece of 2” x 4”, and for the top support I used the 19½” piece of 1” x 4”.

Step 6: Connecting the Back to the Frame

I slid the back into the frame and secured it to the back support and through the legs with 2½” screws. I left the top of the chair back square instead of rounding or cutting it, in keeping with the classic Adirondack chair design.

Step 7: Attaching the Armrests

I attached the armrests with 2” screws, taking care they were flush with the back of the arms, and overhanging slightly at the front of the chair.

Step 8: Staining the Chair

The rough cut ends didn’t make for a clean, cohesive look with the rest of the pressure-treated lumber, so I stained my chairs in Home Hardware’s Exterior Colour of the Year – Ebony.

I am so happy with how these chairs turned out! They are spacious, sturdy, and I know they will be a hit for summer entertaining! Thanks again to the staff at our local Home Hardware who were super friendly and helpful.