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Gardener Potting Table

Gardener Potting Table

By Rob Brown

Every gardener needs a handy workstation to pot plants or start seeds, and to store tools, hoses, and other gardening gear. A galvanized steel pegboard is the perfect backdrop to hang hand tools, and twine. This sturdy, versatile potting table can double as a beverage bar or sideboard for indoor or outdoor entertaining!  

Note: Not all woods are created equal when it comes to year-round outdoor performance. Choose the type of wood that is a balance between your desired longevity, sustainability, and budget.

What You'll Need


• band saw 1345-341
• mitre saw 1347-117
• measuring tape 1048-291
• drill/driver 1239-423
• clamps 1022-480


• 2 x 4 x 8’ boards (7)
• 5/4 x 6 x 8’ deck boards (5)
• #8 x 21/2” exterior screws (100 pack) 2182-426
• exterior wood glue 2020-869
• finish (optional)
• galvanized steel pegboard 16” x 48” (1) 2543-907
• hooks 2543-368, 2543-616
• clear vinyl furniture pads 3/4” (8 pack) 2350-556
Potting Table
Here’s How to Make the Gardener Potting Table

• Cut front legs, back legs, and side rails to length.
• Bevel the top corners of the back legs on your mitre saw. (photo 1)
• Glue and screw the side rails to the front and back legs. Clamp 4” long spacers to the front and back legs to assist with locating lower side rails. (photo 2)
• Cut front and back lower rails to length, and attach them to the fronts and backs of the side assemblies with glue and screws. (photo 3)
• Cut the upper and lower deck boards to length, with a bevel on the upper deck boards. Be sure to cut one upper deck board and one lower deck board from each 8’ long board.
• Notch the rear upper deck board to fit around the rear leg. (photo 4)
• Attach the upper and lower deck boards to the assembly with glue and screws. (photo 5)
• Cut the shelf and two upper rails to length.
• Mark the two cut-outs on the curved upper rail, then remove the waste with a band saw. (photo 6)
• Mark where the upper rails will be located, being sure the pegboard will overlap the two upper rails by at least 1”.
• Fasten the two upper rails to the back legs with screws.
• Glue and screw the shelf to the underside of the curved upper rail.
• Apply a few coats of finish to the bench. (optional)
• Install the galvanized steel pegboard.
• Attach a vinyl pad to the bottom of each leg.

Photo 1
Bevelled Tops
Make quick work of bevelling the tops of each back leg by using a mitre saw with its blade tilted to 45 degrees and equipped with a stop to consistently position the workpiece each time it’s rotated.

Photo 2
Side Assemblies
With 4” long spacers clamped to the lower inside face of the front and back legs, butt and flush the ends of the side rails up against the legs. Glue and screw in place, ensuring the joints are all square.

Photo 3
Assembly Time
With the side assemblies complete, cut and secure the front and back rails in place with glue and screws. Be sure to keep the assembly square.

Photo 4
Notch the Corner
A band saw makes quick work of notching the rear deck board so it will fit around the rear leg.

Photo 5
Even, with Gaps
When installing the deck boards, ensure their ends are even and that the gaps between the boards are consistent so they can expand and contract. Use glue and screws to help ensure the boards don’t split.

Photo 6
Quick Curves
A can of paint offers a quick and easy template to draw a curve onto one of the upper rails. A band saw will remove the waste.

Rob Brown designs and builds custom furniture, and is editor of Canadian Woodworking and Home Improvement magazine. www.canadianwoodworking.com
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