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Sofa Stand

By Rob Brown

Turn your cozy corner into a productive workspace with this accent table that doubles as a sofa stand. Simply customize the height and surface size to suit your space.


Here’s How to Make the Sofa Stand



• table saw 1346-636

• mitre saw 1347-117

• jigsaw 1268-667

• jointer

• planer 1260-219

• router 1258-524

• drill 1239-121

• clamp 1022-480

• measuring tape 1048-291



• hardwood: 9” wide x 1” thick x 8’ long

• #8 x 2” screws (4)

• glue 2020-752

• sanding blocks 1061-282

• stain or protective finish of your choice

Here’s How

• Breakout the two uprights, two top rails, two bottom supports, and two cross rails to rough length.

• Rip all parts except cross rails to final width, and then plane all parts to final thickness.

• Cut mitres on both ends of the uprights and on one end of each top and bottom rail.

• Lay out, cut, and smooth the inside shapes on the uprights, bottom rails, and top rails.

• Attach angled offcuts to the outer edges of the uprights, bottom rails and top rails so they can work as clamping 

blocks. (photo 1)

• Glue the two side assemblies together. (photo 2)

• When dry, trim off angled clamp blocks and hand plane edges flush.

• Cut 45-degree slots in the mitre joints with a jig.

• Plane and install the solid wood mitre strips to strengthen the joint. (photo 3)

• When dry, trim and sand the mitre strips flush.

• Cut the wide notches in the side assemblies to accept the cross rails. Make sure to use a flat top blade so the 

resulting surface is even. (photo 4)

• Ensure cross rails fit, and then glue and clamp them in place while ensuring base assembly is square. (photo 5)

• Sand the base assembly smooth.

• Glue up the top and cut it to finished size.

• Rout profile around the edge of the top.

• Sand all visible surfaces and easy all edges.

• Bore screw clearance holes through the top rail, then attach top to base assembly. (photo 6)

• Apply a stain or protective finish.

Angled Clamping Blocks
Use a bit of glue to temporarily attach the angled offcuts from the mitre joints to the outer edges of the uprights and top and bottom supports. These blocks will act as clamping blocks while gluing up the two leg assemblies.
Apply Clamping Force
With the clamping blocks allowing you to provide clamping pressure 90-degrees to the glue joint, bring the joints together and let dry. A caul clamped across the joint will ensure the joint stays aligned.

Create a Groove
A dedicated jig that runs on the rip fence allows you to create a groove across each mitre joint. A strip of solid wood will be glued into the groove, creating a much stronger joint.
Wide Notches
Using a mitre gauge and a rip fence to position the end of each notch, cut a pair of notches on each leg assembly to accept the cross rails
Final Assembly
Clamp each joint closed and ensure the base assembly is square before leaving it to dry.
Attach the Top
With the holes in the top supports drilled, drive screws through the holes and into the top, securing it in place. Be very careful to not use screws that will protrude through the upper surface of the top.

Rob Brown designs and builds custom furniture and is the editor of Canadian Woodworking and Home Improvement magazine. www.canadianwoodworking.com
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